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Dining

 

John Batchelor: Capra's Italian Deli

7-17-03

By John Batchelor,Go Triad Restaurant Reviewer
News & Record

HIGH POINT -- Capra's Italian Deli occupies the corner space of a rather upscale business center off Eastchester Drive and N.C. 68 in High Point. A freezer to the left offers takeout entrees. A deli case in the center-front supplies pastries, salads and side dishes, along with an abundance of Boar's Head-brand deli meats and cheeses. You place an order at the counter, then pick it up when your number is called. Should you eat in the restaurant, a television set to one side provides a bit of entertainment or news.

Capra's Italian Deli


2640-120 Willard Dairy Road
Deep River Business Center
High Point
454-5975
http://www.caprasdeli.com/

Overall rating: **

Hours: 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Friday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday

Sanitation grade: A (98)

Credit cards: Visa, MC

ABC permits: Beer and wine

Salads: $1.75-$5.35

Soups: $1.75-$3.25

Sandwiches: $4.65-$8.95

Entrees: $4.75-$6.45

Desserts: $1.25-$2.95

Theme: Italian deli

Handicapped accessibility: All seating on entry level

Kid friendly: Children's menu available

Healthy choices: Not identified on menu

Most recent visit: June 9

Food: ** Among the best deli-style restaurants in the area

Ambience: ** Italian deli

Service: * Pleasant counter-ordering and pick up

Value: *** Quality ingredients with plenty of food for the money

Restaurants are assigned ratings of not recommended, acceptable or one to five stars.

I thought the sandwiches here ranked among the best I have found in settings like this, and the take-out entrees were good, too.

Both the Chicken Salad ($4.95/small, $7.45/large) and the Tuna Salad ($4.95/small, $7.45/large) tasted pleasantly fresh. I ordered both on whole wheat and enjoyed the flavor of the bread, especially in combination with the main ingredients.

The Grilled Italian Sausage ($4.95/small, $7.45/large) used sausage made in-house, according to a sign posted on the deli case. The flavor was robust, undergirded by a bit of fennel. Grilled green peppers and onions added impact. A Double Decker ($4.95/small, $7.45/large) allowed me to sample several deli meats: corned beef, pastrami and salami plus Swiss cheese. I appreciate the Boar's Head brand; it's deeply flavored, lean and tender. I also liked the crusty sub rolls used for these particular sandwiches.

Two other sandwiches sustained those positive impressions. A Reuben ($5.75) combined that quality corned beef and Swiss cheese with good kraut on toasted rye bread. Although the menu mentioned Thousand Island dressing, which is a standard Reuben ingredient, the sandwich I received used a hot, spicy mustard without the dressing. I don't know whether this was intentional or accidental, but it was good just the same. An Italian Sub ($5.55/small, $8.35/large) combined salami, pepperoni, cappicola ham and provolone cheese on that crusty sub roll, accented with herbed oil and vinegar. Another winner.

With all sandwiches, portion sizes of the main ingredients were ample. The Double Decker was very large, even though I ordered the small size when applicable. Shredded iceberg lettuce and sliced tomato were the standard condiments. I thought a side of Potato Salad ($1.39) tasted good, although I couldn't identify anything distinctive about it. Half sandwiches with a cup of soup or a side order also are available.

I tried two take-out entrees. Lasagna ($5.95) baked a rich marinara sauce throughout layers of cheeses between sheets of pasta, with the ricotta flavor predominant. Manicotti ($5.85) leaned more toward the tomato flavor, using ziti pasta. My wife and I enjoyed them both, although in both cases we yearned for meat.

On reflection, I think Capra's is one of the better restaurants of the deli concept. I wouldn't just consider it if I were already in the vicinity; I would make a special trip for the sandwiches.

John Batchelor is a freelance contributor whose restaurant reviews appear on Thursdays in Go Triad. Write to him in care of the News & Record, P.O. Box 20848, Greensboro, NC 27420, or send e-mail to jebatchelor@netscape.net.

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